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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. However, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary triumph.